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Posted (edited)
I know this will have limited interest but I noticed that the RE4R03A rebuild threads don't go into much detail on how to overhaul the valve body.
This one happens to be a Nomad valve body that I bought used from a trans that had suffered an oil pump mishap so it had to be completely dismantled to make sure it was spotless.
 
First you need to print out the relevant pages of the FSM and preferably put them under plastic.
 
IMG_1909_zpse275b2e1.jpg
 
I also have the pages for the full trans overhaul in there as well.
 
Prepare a nice clear workspace for yourself. I have this fairly big steel leg laminated table I got from the dump for $10. I used black plastic initially but it didn't like the ATF so I had to work directly on the table.
 
 
IMG_1911_zps6d674580.jpg
 
 
It's really important when doing this kind of work, where parts need to go back in the correct order, to have some way of clearly and logically laying out those parts.
I simply cut a length of aluminium flashing (Bunnings) and used some stainless rods I had to form a corrugated sheet. It bends easily by hand and takes 5 minutes to make.
 
IMG_1912_zps10fb36b6.jpg
 
 
Simply follow the FSM and you can't go wrong.
 
Wholesale Autos, who supply these valve bodies, make there own laser cut separator plate. Most shift kit makers (TransGo, Superior, etc) supply drill bits to modify the plate so this is obviously a more professional approach.
 
IMG_1913_zps010820cd.jpg
 
 
The upper body has the majority of the valves so we start there.
 
IMG_1927_zps5d3cda58.png
 
The pressure regulator (2nd from top) almost certainly has been modified judging by the red coloured spring. Most shift kits modify it as well.
 
5th from the top and 3rd from the bottom are machined parts that don't match the FSM. These are called Shuttle shift valves and originally they move against a spring with an end plug for the locking pin.
These have the pin slot machined in the ends so they are effectively locked solid which is the obvious reason they no longer have a spring either.
Here's a clearer pic of the parts..
 
IMG_1918_zps65c59c7c.jpg
 
Then we do the lower body. Same system, line the bits up in the corrugations in the order and sequence in which they're removed.
 
IMG_1941_zps3bf48f2d.jpg
 
IMG_1943_zps5c830306.jpg

 

 

I've now fitted this valve body to my TB45E in place of the valve body in which I fitted a TransGo shift kit a few years ago. This one might be slightly more precise in the 2-3 change but there's not much difference otherwise.

 

A TransGo shift kit can be bought for ~$140 and I think the Nomad exchange valve bodies are now > $1000.

 

I'm currently doing a complete rebuild of a RE4R03A from a TB45E but I'm building it to Infinity Q45 (the 4.5 lt V8) specs with the extra clutches. I'll do a thread with pics when I've finished it.

Edited by JFF45
Posted

Yep, it's always an anxious moment when you turn the key after fitting it. It wouldn't take much to get something wrong if you weren't paying attention..

Posted

Crikey, that doesn't even look like a "shed job" for sure. Last time I rebuilt BW35 it took 3 tries to get it right and than it broke again....

 

I had never ever owned auto tranny shifted car since! That was enough experience.

 

Good info though, looking forward to read about the next step.

 

Cheers

Posted

It's in a 6 metre extension I built onto an existing shed. I needed the workshop space and still have room to keep 2 cars.

I couldn't get the same coloured tin. The original shed was 20 years old. See the faded door..

post-2435-0-69993900-1418941748_thumb.jp

Posted

That shed looks better equiped then my workplace. 

 

Thanks for sharing, its my dream to have a decent worshop/man cave alas not possible at my current residence and I'm tired of changing to another place and all the hassles associated with that.

 

Regards

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