NADS step by step guide

[Cozydog]

Hello

i have 2007 zd30di patrol and am located in Malawi. I’m just wondering what NADS mods I should do with a series IV. The truck has 160,000km and I’ve just replaced the injector pump. I was planning to do the full NADs but additional read throughs have me questioning that. Being in Malawi I’ve got limited ability to sort out limp modes or other issues. I have all parts needed. My current plan is as follows:

1. EGT and boost gauges

2. Catch can

3. Cross Country intercooler (mine was leaking badly)

4. Lift pump

So my main questions are should I do the Dawes and needle valve install and should I blank my egr?

In a few months time I could possibly do an ecu remap (power curve mail in) if that would be a good option. 
 

appreciate all the help 

[Rumcajs]

G'day,

If you gonna do ECU remap (I'm only familiar with the one in Australia) so then there is no need for Dawes/needle valve combo. Blanking EGR is recommended purely on health reasons of the engine nothing else but that will cause boost spikes so either remap or alternative means of controlling the boost is required. Given that vehicle has done 160k stock I'd remove intake manifold and clean it properly off all the carbon sludge deposits  in there after catch can is fitted and EGR is blanked.

Regards

 

[Talou]

Hello Rumcajs,

I got my Tilix and needles valve. I was planning of installing it without blocking the EGR valve. On what i understood, the EGR valve lower the combustion temperature when the catalyst converter get too warm. That sound like a good think to me and that is why i planned to keep it as design. 

I have the provent 200 and need to clean my intake. My Patrol 2004 zd30 have 230000km. 

Do you see a disadvantage of installing tillix without blocking the Egr?

Regards, 

Vincent ;

 

[Rumcajs]

On 3/12/2022 at 6:23 AM, Talou said:

...Do you see a disadvantage of installing tillix without blocking the Egr?

Regards, 

Vincent ;

 

Hi,

I don't see an advantage installing Tilix valve with or without EGR block but I will need to explain it further.

The problem exists somewhere else. If you wish to maintain EGR as is then there is no point hacking boost control system because EGR will not function until boost pressure drops off (exhaust fumes pressure can't push back against turbo) That's why ECU will back off boost first then open EGR.

While EGR cools combustion temperature that is not done because or to lower catalyst temperature, there is nothing in the control system to monitor that part, system fully dumb hoping for the best....

What Tilix valve alone does is just limits max boost while giving max spool up rate which will create several problems to contend with as ECU will have no ability to control those and as such will have only one option left and that is to introduce those dreaded limps or fuel cuts. Max 10.5 psi at give TPS position and RPM until you reset the air flow (MAF volume) by letting go of the go pedal.

Higher boost creates higher air flow so what to do?  If you decide to keep ECU boost control and adding Tilix to the mix you're just wasting your money and effort as that achieves zilch.

Unfortunately the only thing left is combination of needle valve (very conservatively set to slow down spool up rate) Tilix set at max 17-18 psi and then fingers crossed to avoid fuel cut is to learn when to keep acc pedal not pressed down too long as RPM climb up.

You will be affected by cold weather, hot weather you name it. No amount of fiddling will fix it.

Because the fuel maps are set in the ECU to keep emissions low ECU will respond by limiting fueling the moment its predetermined limits are breached. It is hopeless struggle.

The only fix is to re-map the ECU, then you stop worrying about installing Tilix or anything else.

EGR is not opening every time, only under certain conditions like TPS position, MAF airflow, RPM etc.

It usually opens during a cruise (steady TPS) and not under acceleration. That's why those dreaded scenarios cruising on the highway boost is backed off, EGR opens, exhaust temps raise so the catalyst can do its work and everything is cooking in the meantime especially if the injectors are over fueling as well it becomes rich mixture and that is the end of the diesel engine.

 

 

[Talou]

Thank you so much for your answer!

Vincent;

[Davis]

Hi team,

Have just joined as I am currently looking for a solution to my 2010 Nissan Patrol GU CRD. After buying it in July 2023, it lasted a month and the engine begun to fail. So it happens, there was extensive damage to the engine, requiring it to be rebuilt in Perth. I have replaced the radiator already with a brand new one.

Just some background, it is the ZD30 engine in an auto CRD with 150,000 kms on it. It is full stock with no modifications at the current point in time. I mostly use it for towing my 5.2 ali boat, light off roading (mostly hard and some soft sand/corrugated roads) and touring around WA.

I have read the above thread comments and looking at the NADS that are options once the engine is finished being rebuilt I. If anyone who has experience with this type of engine/set up and has any advice of precisely what needs to be done, I would be extremely grateful. My knowledge of cars/engines isn't extensive and I am a little confused on what exactly I need to do. My current understanding is to install the below mods to ensure the engine runs well (along with regular basic maintenance/servicing), if anyone can confirm my thoughts, that would be incredible!

 

1. Install EGR & Boost gauge

2. Install catch can & pre-fuel filter

3. Install tilix valve

 

Thanks in advance,

Davis

[Rumcajs]

1 hour ago, Davis said:

Hi team,

Have just joined as I am currently looking for a solution to my 2010 Nissan Patrol GU CRD. After buying it in July 2023, it lasted a month and the engine begun to fail. So it happens, there was extensive damage to the engine, requiring it to be rebuilt in Perth. I have replaced the radiator already with a brand new one.

 

1. Install EGR & Boost gauge

2. Install catch can & pre-fuel filter

3. Install tilix valve

 

Thanks in advance,

Davis

G'day,

2010 CrD with extensive damage to to it! Care to elaborate as I'm really curious?

2010 vintage had problems with oil pump bolts coming loose and creating lot of mess, is that the case.

EGR & Boost gauge I'm assuming you mean exhaust temperature gauge...

Numbers on your to do list are almost correct but CrD D30 is little different to Di.

Jury is still out on pre-filter as it adds extra strain on built in fuel lift pump.

As to what Tilix valve will achieve in regards to more advanced fuel injection of CrD and its control unit there might be some issues which will require careful tuning. 

I think boost and exhaust temp gauges with catch can are probably most important as those gauges will alter the way you'll drive it. Catch can will keep intake clean but requires you to do regular emptying unless you find a way to auto drain it to oil sump once engine is off.

Tilix valve setup allows for removal of boost control from engine ECU and unrestricted turbo spool up and much greater boost pressure which might cause issues with engine management so it needs to be tuned properly to find the sweet spot between performance and reliability with engine management not throwing a hissy and causing DTCs and engine limps especially when combined with EGR shim which many had to drill a small hole in to as a compromise to avoid engine errors.

Cheers

[Davis]

On 11/11/2023 at 2:40 PM, Rumcajs said:

G'day,

2010 CrD with extensive damage to to it! Care to elaborate as I'm really curious?

2010 vintage had problems with oil pump bolts coming loose and creating lot of mess, is that the case.

EGR & Boost gauge I'm assuming you mean exhaust temperature gauge...

Numbers on your to do list are almost correct but CrD D30 is little different to Di.

Jury is still out on pre-filter as it adds extra strain on built in fuel lift pump.

As to what Tilix valve will achieve in regards to more advanced fuel injection of CrD and its control unit there might be some issues which will require careful tuning. 

I think boost and exhaust temp gauges with catch can are probably most important as those gauges will alter the way you'll drive it. Catch can will keep intake clean but requires you to do regular emptying unless you find a way to auto drain it to oil sump once engine is off.

Tilix valve setup allows for removal of boost control from engine ECU and unrestricted turbo spool up and much greater boost pressure which might cause issues with engine management so it needs to be tuned properly to find the sweet spot between performance and reliability with engine management not throwing a hissy and causing DTCs and engine limps especially when combined with EGR shim which many had to drill a small hole in to as a compromise to avoid engine errors.

Cheers

Hey mate,

 

Yeh look to be honest it was mostly my fault for not doing my due diligence prior to buying and being too hasty to get a fourby. I bought it off an elderly couple in my current town, one owner, low kms (150,000 kms), hadn't done much off roading, bought in July and serviced in May 2023, really well kept and clean, had a test drive ect. Then drove it around town for a month (No more than 400 kms of ownership) and one day on way home from work the stock water temp dial shot up to hot and the check engine light went on.

Found coolant splattered all through the engine bay and took it to the local mechanic and was told the radiator was completely shot, got that replaced and it still wasn't holding pressure so took it to Toyota and they pulled it apart and found that the head had warped but not cracked, cylinder 1 had been gauged and a few other things wrong. Very much lesson learnt and suffering the consequences now but copping it on the chin. However, I am suspicious as I contacted the previous owners multiple times and received crickets back so I am sure they were aware of some issues that they weren't overly being forward about.

Anywho, thanks again for your feedback, that really does clear it all up and helps me greatly! I hope I have cleared up the series of events for you!!!

[Rumcajs]

Hmm, strange and unfortunate for you.

I know ZD30 coolant temp gauge is deliberately calibrated not to move past its regular operating range until it shoots past 100C but by that time is too late....hence

Good idea is to get OBD2 Scangauge and that allows you to watch coolant temps properly (it will show you what engine ECU sees in real time), I've got a version of it for Di (ECUTalk) and it saved my hide a few times.

So it appears that little ZD30 was overheating for a while, the previous owners knew about and got rid off it. If they towed a caravan with it then it is obvious.... 

 I agree with buying second hand GU with ZD30 is a lottery but that infamous grenade's pin has been pulled waiting for it to go off....

Regards

 

[Davis]

Thanks for that handy tip! I was looking into the scangauge or even the code breaker that fulfils a similar need. They look great and cheap insurance to stop a problem getting bigger or worse. I've identified a few other things I would like to do down the track once the basic stuff is done, eg upgrade intercooler, airbox and hosing. Is it worth doing a ECU remap on a CRD?

 

And what basic preventatory maintenance can I do weekly/monthly to keep everything in order?

[Rumcajs]

45 minutes ago, Davis said:

Thanks for that handy tip! I was looking into the scangauge or even the code breaker that fulfils a similar need. They look great and cheap insurance to stop a problem getting bigger or worse. I've identified a few other things I would like to do down the track once the basic stuff is done, eg upgrade intercooler, airbox and hosing. Is it worth doing a ECU remap on a CRD?

 

And what basic preventatory maintenance can I do weekly/monthly to keep everything in order?

Well if you can find someone who does ECU remap for CrD engine sure especially if they do the right thing and also remove smoke map limitations aka limp mode induced by overzealous emission controls. 

I'd also identify and see if reducing amount of pre-heating time glow plugs take by wiring up glow plug timer modification would also increase the life span of glow plugs.  

The best preventative thing is watch boost and exhaust temperature during driving and act accordingly.

BTW I'm led to believe Scangauge OBD2 scanner can read boost pressure as well.

Don't use fully synthetic engine oil, keep an eye on fuel filter and if really want  fit water separator as water in fuel is the biggest enemy of common rail diesels , fit air cleaner correct way and regularly empty catch can you fit (stick to decent one like Provent 200). Regularly inspect coolant level and condition...

Enjoy the drive !

[Davis]

Thanks so much mate that is incredible information!