NADS step by step guide

[Simo]

Is it mainly the Direct Injection ( pre 08 ) that have the dramas?

off this subject, I was just looking thru other posts and came across the Scangauge.

This product looks amazing.

Are they just a plug in module or do you have to install sensors and pressure transducers?

[Rumcajs]

Is it mainly the Direct Injection ( pre 08 ) that have the dramas?

off this subject, I was just looking thru other posts and came across the Scangauge.

This product looks amazing.

Are they just a plug in module or do you have to install sensors and pressure transducers?

 

Technically they're both direct injection Diesels (pre and post 2007). The jury is still out on CrD (Common rail) version of ZD30 and their reliability, there aren't documented cases of failures except for a few, strangely enough piston no 1 on those few unlike in Di where it mainly affected 3 & 4.

CrDs seem to have better tolerance to boost and higher EGTs hence less failures. They still suffer from same underlying principles though.

 

Scangauge ® is a "plug and play" that plugs in to OBDII socket but needs to be configured/setup. Well worth investing in to IMHO.

Edited May 17, 2013 by Rumcajs

[Simo]

Just been researching the Scangauge and I think that`ll be my next purchase.

Much more info than just boost and egt.

Back to my patrol, I will still go ahead with the ERG blanking and then reassess after that.

I haven`t been able to find a knowledgeable mechanic here in Karratha. I have approached the local Nissan Dealer and I think I knew more than there head mechanic.

I have driven other CRD patrols very similar to mine and they have a lot more get up and go.

I just want better fuel economy and a bit more power.

Thanks for your advise Ramcajs.

[Rumcajs]

You will find that a lot of CrDs are actually terrible with fuel. It seems that there are some inconsistencies in regards the good ones and the really bad ones but underlying causes are  mostly either injectors or pump or both or in some cases software issues.

CrDs are very sensitive to fuel contamination and damage it causes.

 

You can do the usual check air cleaner, clean MAF sensor, as the cheapest items but eventually the more expensive action is/could/will be required.

The worst part is that Nissan will not help you, if anything they will scam you as the incompetence of Nissan dealers is legendary (personally I think it applies to any dealer)

 

If you suspect high fuel consumption and low power that's usually either issue with fuel or air. Air is easier and cheaper to trace/check but fuel system is horrendously expensive and it seems there aren't many specialist around who can actually do proper diagnosis or have equipment to do so.

There is for example a known issue with some CrD ZD30 engines not having so called trim codes entered in the ECM from factory so the fuel calculation can be accurate.

 

Good luck

 

Cheers

Edited May 18, 2013 by Rumcajs

[Simo]

Thanks Rumcajs

I will keep investigating and trying.

Thanks for all your help.

 

Simo

[grinn3rz]

Hi ppl

 I just bought a 01 gu with the zd30 I have fitted all of NADS except for the dawes valve . The dawes valve goes on tommorow :-)

 I was blown away to see the spikes from the turbo how irregular they were . the pyrro got upto 400 after 5 mins of cruising round at 60kmh :-( .

 the old girl has done around 6000ks since the rebuild , 380000 on the clock so hopefully i will get another 400 or so out of it .

 

  Thanks for all your info on NADS and hopefully it will fix the problem .

[anakaine]

Hi all, 

 

I have a question for you:

 

I bought a 2001 GU3 without NADS, It has about 250,000km on the clock and to the best of my knowledge has never gone boom. 

 

I'm getting ready to fit the Boost and EGT gauges on before a trip to Sydney - but that's probably the limit of what I can do at the moment .

 

 

The question: Given that most people say "The damage has likely already been done", what would you be getting checked out in my situation to prevent the thing from going boom (apart from fitting NADS that is)? 

[Rumcajs]

There is nothing you can do now but fitting boost and especially EGT gauge will assist you in keeping an eye on the engine. EGTs are crucial to keep as low as possible so drive accordingly to the EGT gauge.

Fitting catch can, EGR shim and Dawes/needle valve, cleaning inlet manifold, fitting glow plugs timer or manual overide is just a beginning.

Cheers

[malbme]

Great guide. I've already got a DP chip fitted and 3' exhaust. Does anyone know if the DP chip takes over the boost management from the standard ecu? Looking forward to getting all the gear and making my patrol the bullet proof machine it should be.

[Rumcajs]

DP chip does not take over boost control. The only Diesel chips which have anything to do with the boost are ones from CHIP IT and Super Diesel Smart or that's what they claim.

Their claims seem a little dubious not to mention they're little shy on information if not dodgy for websites as well.

Cheers

[malbme]

Just installed the full NADS modification today, also fitted a new intercooler as well. Really happy with the results. Big thankyou to Dronus 4X4 your guide made it almost foolproof.

[Rumcajs]

Just installed the full NADS modification today, also fitted a new intercooler as well. Really happy with the results. Big thankyou to Dronus 4X4 your guide made it almost foolproof.

Good stuff, if you wanna take it to the next level than built yourself Jaycar Digital Voltage modifier kit and splice in to MAF signal to manipulate it. Than observe the transformation and go OMFG why did I waste money on Diesel chip. It does require some skills to assemble and tweak afterwards but the results are nothing short of spectacular.

 

Cheers

[Pinto]

I have been reading this with great interest.. I have a blocked EGR , intercooler fan and a 3 inch exhaust but have never had any problems towing a 2 1/2 ton caravan with 4000rpm showing on the tacho on some long hills yet I read about others having NADS and still the hand grenade explodes !!!

I have never had limp mode come on. 

A friend has a 2000 Patrol ZD30 stock engine with NO nads and tows a 2 1/2 ton caravan regularly with over 300,000 kays on the clock and has Never had problems..

Can these engines be self destructing because of " Too much right foot " from people driving them like a petrol engine not a diesel.

I have seen many revving the crap out of the ZD30 out in the bush and not using the gearbox properly..

So far I have replaced the MAF at 150,000 and the glow plugs at 170,000 due to hard starting in mid winter.

ZD30 has oil change every 5000km and dont use a drop between changes..

Maybe I just got a good one or maybe it will go KABOOM soon..............

Edited October 4, 2013 by Pinto

[Rumcajs]

The arguments are widespread but it seems the harder you flog it the longer it lasts. ZD30  hates to be babied and especially it hates to be lagged. Most of them expire while they cruise at 100 kays an hour with low boost high EGTs scenario so a light to medium throttle. So I guess working them hard means that EGR is working less and the boost keeps higher and EGTs lower.

 

The piston design is a major weakness IMHO and it makes sense that they expire when heat rises during overfuelling but it does seem to be a results of incremental overheating of the piston which eventually leads to a failure. 

 

Cheers.

Edited October 5, 2013 by Rumcajs

[Wags83]

G'day, I have the nads setup just as dronus has shown. Great post by the way. A question with the vnt. I stuffed with mine well before I fitted the nads setup. I'm wondering what the original setting is? It's been wound out and in on the thread more than once. Would anyone know how many threads from the 10mm nut to the actuator?? Any help would be great!

[Pinto]

I found this on another forum which I think is quite interesting. It seems some of the 2007 and onwards CRD ZD30s suffered massive engine failure due to the oil pump bolts falling out ...........

So big $$$ in fixing or replacing engine.

 When my grenade explodes the first thing in the bin will be the ZD30 engine and a TD42

will be put in or even better a 6.5 turbo diesel..

 

It goes to show that you can take all the precautions and yet old Murphy can still rear his ugly head..

No amount of NADS will fix this problem of oil pump bolts falling out..

ZD30s have really earned their reputation as the ' HAND GRENADE '

 

PS early Ducati motorcycles were known as 'hand grenades' too for the same reason..

[Rumcajs]

"Oil pump bolts" issue is only suppose affect early CrD ZD30 from 07 to 08. It is clearly assembly quality control issue as oppose to  incompetent design and cheap manufacturing to appease emission control laws. These are not the same. ZD30 CrD units are not failing at the same rate as previous Di units and can certainly tolerate conditions under which early versions would self destruct. What this indicates is that the design and perhaps materials from which for example the CrD pistons are made is probably the key ingredient and also the more advanced control system which deals with AFRs more efficiently than the pathetic MAF system only.

This however makes no difference to the reputation of ZD30 indeed most late high speed Diesel engines suffer from the similar issues. The emission control is the devil which makes modern Diesels so unreliable comparing to old "lumps of iron".

Cheers

[Waza]

G'day all

I have a 2003 GU 3.0 and fitted nads (tks dronus4x4)

My Dawes valve cannot stop the boost vacuum getting above 23lbs. I have stretched the spring and wound it right down but still no change !

Do I need to adjust the Vnt & if so how ?

Would a heavier spring be better in the Dawes & if so does anyone know where I can get one ?

It is spooling nicely but I want to limit the max boost.

Cheers

Waza

[Rumcajs]

G'day all

I have a 2003 GU 3.0 and fitted nads (tks dronus4x4)

My Dawes valve cannot stop the boost vacuum getting above 23lbs. I have stretched the spring and wound it right down but still no change !

Do I need to adjust the Vnt & if so how ?

Would a heavier spring be better in the Dawes & if so does anyone know where I can get one ?

It is spooling nicely but I want to limit the max boost.

Cheers

Waza

 

Hi there,

Heavier spring is definately better but for different reason; it will cause it to unload at higher pressure and reduce Dawes valve bounce but if I understand your question that is not what you are after.  I think you misunderstanding, you have to wind the Dawes valve off (more thread showing) to get it unload bleed off at lower pressure.

Stretching the spring also causes it to gain extra psi upwards.

 

So to clarify if yours is boosting to 23 psi than you have to wind the Dawes back/out not in.

 

You can get the heavier spring from 3Barrracing  the makers of the Dawes valve too.

 

Cheers

 

Cheers

[Waza]

Thank you Rumcajs

I will give it a go tomorrow by winding it right out & then in a turn at a time & observing the boost gauge until less than 18psi is max at 4000rpm. Then open the needle valve to get 10psi at 2000rpm on road.

Cheers

Waza

[Waza]

Good morning

Just wound out the Dawes valve and it limits boost to 18-19 psi now

Opened the needle valve and it is now running 10 psi at 2000 rpm under a light load & 15 psi at 3000 rpm.

Under heavy load in 3 4 or 5th gear the boost gauge is bouncing from max set on the Dawes and drops to back 14-16 psi. I can settle this by backing off the go pedal a little. Do I have too high a spool up rate, does the Dawes valve néed a heavier spring, or is this operating correctly ?

Cheers

Waz

[Rumcajs]

Good morning

Just wound out the Dawes valve and it limits boost to 18-19 psi now

Opened the needle valve and it is now running 10 psi at 2000 rpm under a light load & 15 psi at 3000 rpm.

Under heavy load in 3 4 or 5th gear the boost gauge is bouncing from max set on the Dawes and drops to back 14-16 psi. I can settle this by backing off the go pedal a little. Do I have too high a spool up rate, does the Dawes valve néed a heavier spring, or is this operating correctly ?

Cheers

Waz

 

 

 

Thats standard Dawes valve bounce but if it is just droping and settling at said pressure thats fine, you could benefit from heavier spring but only if the boost bounce is all over the place otherwise it is gonna do the same. I have dual Dawes valves setup, one with heavier and one with standard spring.

 

Both behave the same. When they unload boost drops about 2-3 psi and keeps steady at lower pressure afterwards unless change is made via accelerator pedal.

 

Its probably more visible on analog needle gauge where you can see needle oscillating. I have digital (numeric) gauge so it ain't concerning me as much.

 

So unless it is jumping back and forth constantly otherwise that's normal behaviour.

 

Needle valve will only influence spool up rate so you could try slowing a little to see if the effect of bounce can be mitigated this way.

 

Cheers

Edited January 18, 2014 by Rumcajs

[Waza]

Cheers for the help.

I can now relax when the heavy footed misses takes the troll & the horse float away now ;-)

[Waza]

Well I'm pleased to report that the heavy footed wife got down & back to merimbula with horse & float. The nads mods worked a treat & mt ousley was a easy 3rd gear climb at 60 km/h. . If my misses can't destroy the troll nobody can !

Gotta luv when a plan comes together

Cheers

Waza

[Rickie3]

Can I use these guages? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PYRO-EGT-EXHAUST-GAS-TEMPERATURE-GAUGE-TURBO-BOOST-PSI-KIT-GQ-GU-PATROL-DIESEL-/131089074298?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e8584887a