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Posted (edited)

* Built this some time ago and decided to move the thread over here *

Hi,

Im currently in the middle of building my own turbo kit for my TD42 leafy ute.

First I started off with a pre loved 2nd hand kit that utilized a Garrett t25 turbo.

I decided to pull it down and check the turbo for play only to find that all the pipe work was kaput.

In these series of pictures you can see the old pipes and the new ones I had made.

1) The compressor housing inlet pipe:

The old one was very poorly made out of 1mm mild steel, the weld joining the pipe to the flange was pooled on top and had no penetration, causing it to crack.

Next to it you can see the new pipe I had made from aluminum.

img0662la.jpg

2) The compressor housing outlet pipe:

The old one was a bit of a shock when I pulled it off due to the fact that when I purchased the kit it had a silicone bend pipe clamped on to hide the inside.

It was made from 3mm steam pipe and then welded to 1mm stainless. Again very dodgy. You can see the new aluminum pipe in both photos, a vast improvement on flow and functionality.

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3) The dump pipe:

Well now that I had already found the two dodgy pipes above I wasn't expecting to much from the dump pipe. The flange was the complete wrong size and did not allow the waste gate to open at all. The new dump pipe is a perfect match to the internal diameter of the exhaust housing giving excellent flow and now the waste gate can actually open.

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At this stage I figured it would be a shame to use the pov manifold that came with the kit so I invested in one of these from the UK.

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It is a top mount turbo manifold made from 301 stainless steel with a wall diameter of 3.2mm and an internal diameter of 48mm. All pipes are equal length and tig welded.

The manifold also came with a exhaust stud extension kit (longer studs) as it uses a two piece flange, the second being 16mm thick stainless.

I then decided to get the turbo exhaust housing and dump pipe ceramic coated.

But first I had the dump pipe modded to suit the new manifold.

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Now getting close to assembly it was time to order some more goodies. Some stainless water feed lines to clear the manifold, an Autometer Boot and Pyro gauge, sump gasket and various other nuts, bolts and so on.

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Edited by Hairy
Posted (edited)

One thing I left out of the first post was about the compressor housing.

When I had the new inlet pipe made (using the old one as a reference) I failed to see that the internal diameter was to big for the compressor housing. This gave it a 4mm lip where the pipe and housing met.

img0670oc.jpg

So I pulled the housing off and took it and the pipe down to my engineers work shop.

He bored out the compressor housing and created a nice seamless tapered finish as you can see in the last pic in post 2#.

Edited by Hairy
Posted

Time for a bit of an update.

I haven't done all that much in the past few weeks, but none the less some steps forward have been taken.

Ive decided to ditch the GU 2.8ltr intercooler and purchased one of these off ebay:

img0709dg.jpg

The intercooler measures 600mm x 300mm x 95mm.

The plan is to top mount it with either one or two electric thermo fans and also water sprayers.

Ive also decided that I need to get the head rebuilt due to a very annoying ticking noise.

I took the rocker cover off and checked valve clearances and all were within spec so at the moment Im currently awaiting a quote from the machine shop / engine re-builders.

Last of all Ive been playing with the air intake for the turbo :

img0710zh.jpg

The filter is a KnN apollo that I ran on one of my old 4x4's, it will be plumbed straight onto the snorkel. It has had a full clean and re-oil and is good to go. Its a great little unit and should promote a bit of induction noise aswell as unrestricted flow icon_wink.gif.

Posted

Time for a good news update icon_biggrin.gif.

I got the ute back late Friday arvo and there is a distinct improvement in power and none of the old top and bottom end ticking, slapping or knocking.

I can't praise the guys at Road and Track enough for there awesome work, eye for detail and superb no bull**** customer service. This is the first engine Ive had them work on but a mate of mine has had three done there in the past so the recommendation dose not come lightly or with out experience.

I had a dyno run before the truck went in (will scan and upload later) and she was making 58kw and 496nm @ 3000rpm in 3rd. This will effectively be my base line.

So the fun has begun and I have been in the process of bolting my turbo kit on.

Ive run into a few dramas so far but nothing a grinder and map torch couldn't fix.

Both problems have been to do with the manifold. It came with an extra 16mm think stainless flange (you can see it on the bench in prior pics/posts) that required extended studs. With the flange on the manifold would simply not bolt up, the studs that were supplied were not long enough and runner number one hit the alternator.

Easy fix, remove the flange and bolt the manifold up - wrong. Now the studs were to long and hitting the pipes arrrgh. So after some running around and finding that I couldnt get stock studs quickly I decided to cut them down and clean them up.

The design of the manifold is good but I only have one problem with it, the first bend in the pipes is way to close / over laps the stud location. This made it a ripe bitch to install and I had to make these up so I could actually do up the nuts.

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So this is where im at now:

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Still alot to do like the return oil line (inc sump fitting), gauges, intercooler, fan, scoop and plumb in the water lines before I can get it down to have the exhaust made.

Posted

Time for a bit of an update:

Been busy playing around trying to get everything squared away ready for the 3' mandrel bent mild steel exhaust to be done and the final tune.

Ive crossed a few more things on the to do list off such as;

Pyro gauge installed and wired up with the dash lights in the old clock location:

(I used the clock power feed and dash illumination by finding the right wires with the multimeter, all connections are soldered and heat shrinked).

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I did the same for the boost gauge but this time took the illumination from the cluster:

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The boost gauge cup is carbon fiber icon_wink.gif

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Mounted the boost "T", still need the lines installed:

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Installed the catch can for the crank case ventilation. It loops back on to the the K&N, the can is full of teased out stainless steel wool and all fittings have had high temp plumbers tape applied and the main bolts anti-siezed.

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Water lines plumbed in, I think I might upgrade these to full length braided stainless.

Seems a bit of a waste to have the little bit of heater hose to join them up in there.

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Two more engine bay photos, because every one loves photos icon_biggrin.gif

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Posted

So only a few things left on the to do list, the intercooler and scoop need to be installed, some lines for the boost T, join the K&N to the snorkel, oil return to sump and oil change and probably a few other minor bits and pieces along the way.

This is the scoop im going to use, it is a Navara scoop and I recon it looks pretty good

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Well im off for 5 days on north straddie tomorrow, going in my mates 3.0ltr GU (fingers crossed it doesn't go BOOM !). Hopefully only a few more weeks untill this is all completed and running !.

Cheers,

dang pic limit, had to split that post into two !.

Posted

Quick update

Intercooler brackets and pipe work is done, exhaust also finished.

Some pics:

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I will post some more info later, having a play around with it atm.

Posted

Here are some better pics that my mate took.

My phone takes horrible pics lol.

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patrolturbo02.jpg

I haven't done the pump yet but its on the to do list in the future.

The good thing about this setup is that more power is easily attained by doing the pump and swapping in my T28.

Before the turbo kit went on I had a dyno run and made 58kw and 496nm @ 3000 rpm in 3rd. I would be very happy if I nuge just past 100kw and get up to about 650 - 700nm.

On the drive home from my engineers work shop I was hitting 10psi in 3rd at about 2300rpm, the pyro was reading 350 deg C. I haven't wound the pump or boost T out yet.

With the t25 and stock pump I will be aiming for about 12 - 14 psi and hopefully achieve the power figures I stated above.

But with all mechanical mods ive run into a new set of problems. Perhaps someone can offer some ideas / info on whats going on.

Scenario: I took the truck for a spin this morning, the turbo was starting to make a metal on metal scraping / spinning sound at around 5psi.

I took the intake pipe of the compressor housing and the wheel is fine, hasn't touched the housing and there is NO shaft play at all.

The boost gauge is also reading 10 vac from idle. I think this could be a kink in the line, but none the less an easy fix unless its related to the turbo.

Im about to go pull the turbo out and check that it has enough oil flow and also that the turbine wheel is not hitting the exhaust housing. Im sorta thinking that since I had the exhaust housing ceramic coated this may have closed up the tolerance and is causing the turbine wheel to scrape.

Any ideas ?. Im going to go have a play and pull it down a bit.

Cheers,

Posted

Well I pulled out the t25 and decided im sick of playing around with 2nd hand turbos.

So I went down to MTQ today and picked up a brand new GT2860rs, 60mm, 62 trim 0.60A/R AKA the DISCO POTATO:

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Stay tuned .......

Posted (edited)

Here are some pics of the finished product with the GT2860rs installed

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You can also see the huge AGM absorbed power battery in the pics.

Im still yet to do a proper intake manifold.

Edited by Hairy
Posted

An a current update:

Truck is running well altho there are a couple of things im going to change on it shortly:

Intake, new manifold and also a decent filter box as i believe the KnN is not big enough.

Also Im going to cut the muffler out and go straight through as its not loud enough, the turbo whistle is alot more prominent than the exhaust note.

Posted

I have the same worries about the k&n apollo air intake.

I'm thinking about buying from ebay


  • Diameter: 5''


  • Inlet & Outlet: 4''



  • Length: 10 1/8''


  • CFM Rating: 600


airfilter.jpg

Posted

Thanks for moving this hairy, I enjoyed re reading it

I am thinking about doing a top mount to take some stess off my radiator from the front mount

Posted

Haha, thanks Evil :)

Dye, I think that may still be a bit small, Im contemplating a nice big stainless steel box about 350x250x250 with a panel filter. Still haven't put any plans to paper so will update when I've done something.

Thanks Mike, I still need to tidy the thread up a bit and add some more pics but glad to hear someone has enjoyed reading it :D

Thanks Goldtrol, I ended up going with a slightly different Navara scoop as that one was no where near square after I measured it up. Ill stick some pics up soon but Im a lazy bugger and still have not bothered to paint the bonnet or scoop lol. I actually don't mind having the truck looking rough as guys, it surprises a few when they hear it and ask to see whats under the bonnet haha.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
Posted

hey mate, im looking at intercooling my td42, ur turbo inlet and outlet(not exhaust) i saw u replaced with bigger ones. i was looking to go 3"piping from snorkel to turbo, turbo to inlet manifold, knowing the standed sizes are alot smaller, did u custom make your own or get them done?or know where u can by them?

cheers

  • 7 months later...
Posted

Hairy,

 

Im looking at doing my stocky TD42 silver top and building it up with a turbo kit, just wondering where you got your oil feed and returns going to??

 

Also, where did you get that intercooler and how much was it?

 

 

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