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Posted (edited)

Ordered some spares from Nizzbits.

  On 6/11/2012 at 3:43 AM, dronus4x4 said:

Gave the car a bit of a wash and vacuum.

Put the awning out so it can dry in the shade.

Replaced pro vent drain bottle. This is how much oil I have collected...

post-101-133938619202_thumb.jpg

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Wow, over what distance was that accumulated? initially that looks like a lot of oil, I now get around 40ml per 5000k which is the range I have settled on as a checking distance even though I don't change the oil until 10,000k.

Edited by geeyoutoo
Posted

Fitted LED replacement T10 Wedge type globes in to main headlamps (the yellow glow of OEM globes was seriously disturbing to look at after the white glow of bull bar LEDs) part # ZD-0394 from Jaycar $6.30 for two.

Cheers

Posted

  On 6/13/2012 at 11:53 AM, Rumcajs said:
Fitted LED replacement T10 Wedge type globes in to main headlamps (the yellow glow of OEM globes was seriously disturbing to look at after the white glow of bull bar LEDs) part # ZD-0394 from Jaycar $6.30 for two.

Cheers

Is that for the park lamps? I thought they were dual element?

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Posted

  On 6/11/2012 at 3:53 AM, geeyoutoo said:
Ordered some spares from Nizzbits.

Wow, over what distance was that accumulated? initially that looks like a lot of oil, I now get around 40ml per 5000k which is the range I have settled on as a checking distance even though I don't change the oil until 10,000k.

Yeah that is over quite a while.. I get about what you get.. I think.. good feeling chucking it out instead of it going through intercooler etc..

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Posted (edited)

  On 6/13/2012 at 11:58 AM, dronus4x4 said:

Is that for the park lamps? I thought they were dual element?

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Mine is 4 series, it has parkers incorporated in the inner corner of the main h/lamp assy and is single element globe T10. I think yours is the same except it is located in the separate indicator/parker assy on the outer side of the main lamp. I'm sure there is a replacement LED for whatever the type of globe is in there.

Cheers

Edited by Rumcajs
Posted

Ohh OK cool thanks.

I went to replace mine with led but it was too hard to find a duel led park globe, too hard to pull mine out and I gave up...

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Posted (edited)

Replaced all brake pads with new Bendix 4x4 premium pads.

Pads in there were Nissan branded so either the previous owner replaced them with genuine, or they have lasted 210,000km. Still had a few mm left but had some squeeks which are sorted now.

The whole process was pretty easy..

Jack up car

Remove wheel

Loosen lid on brake master cylinder

Undo the two bolts which hold the caliper in. Put them somewhere safe.

Slide the piston caliper out and put it on the wheel.

Pull old pads out.

Put squeek shim on new pads.

Use old pad and a g clamp to push brake prisons back in evenly

Put new pads in calipers, replace calipers, bolts, etc as above.

The brake pads are marked left/right/inner/outer.

Repeat for the other 3 wheels.

I ended up with brake fluid going everywhere out the top of the master cylinder.. its still above the full level.. not sure that is good or bad..

Don't forget to tighten master cylinder lid.

Brakes are now back at the top of travel and feel really good. Took less than an hour and cost $100 for both front and rear sets (genuine Bendix - don't compromise on brake pads)

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Edited by dronus4x4
Posted

Top job.. My grandpa always said never compromise on tyres or brakes.. There the 2 most important things to keep you on the road and outta the guy in fronts boot...

And so try.. I've never had a crash, a faulty brake or a tyre aquaplane... Touch wood..

Posted (edited)

  On 6/15/2012 at 10:24 AM, dronus4x4 said:

..................

I ended up with brake fluid going everywhere out the top of the master cylinder.. its still above the full level.. not sure that is good or bad..

Don't forget to tighten master cylinder lid.

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LOL, classic mistakes, you need to suck a half of the reservoir out before starting to push the cylinders back in order to be able to fit new pads and not having master cylinder reservoir overflowing than simply top up or not as required afterwards. In your case use a syringe to empty extra fluid till on full mark than use the extracted fluid as very effective anti-rust freeing liquid/solution. (not on the painted surface, lol)

Those squeek shims are they clipped on the pads? Or just sitting there between the pad and the cylinder? If so did you use copper based paste to stick the shim to the pad? Otherwise you gonna have squeeking brakes soon at light pedal application soon, very annoying as you're reversing out of the driveway in the morning.

Cheers

Edited by Rumcajs
Posted

Thanks, I'll suck some out with a syringe to get it down to the full mark.

I didn't have any paste, the shims clipped onto the back of the pads pretty tight and I didn't notice any new noises.. will keep an ear out.

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Posted

Tip for young players, apply some grease onto the ends of the pad shoe where the sit in their mounts will stop noise from any pad movement.

Posted

Got it into low range for the first time today in ourimbah state Forrest. First 4 wheel driving I've done since getting the new car. Got lost in the bloody place. Damn dead end tracks go on for miles. Car went well :-)

Posted

  On 6/15/2012 at 11:23 AM, dronus4x4 said:

I did get brake fluid on one of my tyres but washed it off with water.. should be OK?

In the old days (when I was a young man, yes I was one once) whenever we bled brakes or clutch we always kept the old fluid to use for cleaning and polishing the tyre sidewalls on the race car and the tow vehicle, gives them a nice sheen and feeds the rubber.

Posted (edited)

  On 6/17/2012 at 9:22 AM, geeyoutoo said:

In the old days (when I was a young man, yes I was one once) whenever we bled brakes or clutch we always kept the old fluid to use for cleaning and polishing the tyre sidewalls on the race car and the tow vehicle, gives them a nice sheen and feeds the rubber.

Crikey you learn something new every day.

I didn't realise that chariots had rubber tyres... well there you go!

Not sure if the horse (tow vehicle) would like it either!

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Edited by dronus4x4
Posted

Car is in getting tierod ends, caster correction kit, rear sway bar extension kit, glind shower install and wheel alignment. Cant wait to have a shower in the front yard to test it out..

Posted

  On 6/17/2012 at 9:34 AM, dronus4x4 said:

Crikey you learn something new every day.

I didn't realise that chariots had rubber tyres... well there you go!

Not sure if the horse (tow vehicle) would like it either!

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I've never liked you :rolleyes:

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