Rumcajs

Good stuff, glad to be of assistance. Regards

OK so it appears that the actual factory central locking is still working as it should. if you use drivers side locking part on the handle that should also operate all door lock. The aftermarket wireless or RC unit doesn't need the factory procedure it should have its own, some have programming button on the unit which needs to be pressed/held for so long etc. This should be in the instructions included with those aftermarket units on how to pair set of fobs included. Remember how this Nissan central locking works: Wireless/key less/remote interfaces with the drivers side door lock unit to operate locks on all doors including drivers. The factory unit includes also wiring to all door sensors to confirm that doors are closed. Aftermarket units don't need that crap indeed it is hindrance especially in case of rear barn door! Thats why aftermarket units only need six wires as we don't need to make checks if the doors are actually closed, that just Japs stupid overzealous checking in case you leave keys in the vehicle etc... First question: is Mongoose unit working? (even with remote right next to it) if it is then try to obtain information how it is wired up or wiring arrangement for it. How many wires are connected? Second question: have you paired Ebay unit fobs with the Ebay unit? Use intructions/info how to provided with the unit, don't use Nissan OEM instructions it will not work! Third question: if you connected Jaycar unit as per instructions, did you pair the fobs as per included instructions? This is the one I have and it works brilliantly ==> https://www.jaycar.com.au/remote-controlled-car-central-locking-system-with-2-keyfob/p/LR8839 The unit has learning button which needs to be pressed/held for 1 sec then pressing lock on each transmitter(fob) will pair them. Did you do that? Green and Blue wires are the only one needed....to lock unlock on this unit! Essentially if not concerned about indicators its just 4 wires. Positive, Negative, Lock, Unlock, and 2x Indicators I removed glovebox on my car ST 2004, to check/confirm my wiring setup: LR8839 side Nissan side Red Red/White B+ 12V (It means constant battery power) Black Black B- Ground/Earth Blue Blue/Red Green Blue optional indicators: Brown Green/Red Brown Green/Yellow According to my original post on other forum I might have swapped above Lock and Unlock wires so above list is working correctly. I have cut those 6 wires on original Nissan plug off.... Then used 8 pin white plastic connector kit from Jaycar ==> https://www.jaycar.com.au/automotive-8-way-plug-socket-250-series/p/PP2069 to make it nicer to connect to aftermarket unit existing harness ( I hate soldering wires) of which I had to cut a lot of length off! I only needed 0.5 m of those 6 wires. Rest I taped up away. Cheers LR8839_manualMain_76676.pdf

Mate, I don't think so as if it works via drivers door buttons.... You need to understand how the system works... Did you read that thread I posted a link to? It explains how the system works. Basically the remote unit just interfaces with/via drivers door control and remote relay. Did you actually pair the remotes as in supplied instructions? If drivers door controls work then its only issue is the remote receiver. As with any Remote control you're required to pair the fobs before they will work!

Just re-check that wiring is connected correctly... wiring diagram bellow. Bonus with aftermarket unit is that unlike factory unit there is no checking for doors properly closed which commonly an issue especially with rear door not closing properly with barn door sagging a little. Other then that it makes no sense why the Ebay unit doesn't work unless the signals are reversed....

I've replaced factory wireless receiver for keyless entry for exactly same reason with Jaycar kit, it worked right away. I followed a thread on patrol4x4.com forum and added my 2 cents worth to the discussion ==> https://www.patrol4x4.com/posts/6963332/ B/R

G'day, I used to have same problems, now I have different ones. Re-mapping exposes cooling system deficencies so any issues with fan, radiator etc will quickly cause the engine overheating! Did I mention "rolling coal..." if you're careless with the go pedal? Choose your poison carefully. Anyway the place is called ==> https://ecpt.com.au/ B/R

Hello, If you need to run dual Dawes setup you'll need to check old Chaz's posts where he uses excellent examples of all the possible setups. I will need to dig in to my old .... actually its still on his site ==> http://chaz.yellowfoot.org/Manual Boost Controller.htm Cheers There are various ways you could set it up, use voltage controller/switch to set tps voltage at which it will trigger however good luck finding one out. jaycar don't seem to sell those anymore. if you are after which wire to hack in to from TPS for signal you will need to tell us which model is your Patrol....first.

if you've got boost controller setup to 25 psi, but is the engine actually achieving that? I doubt. What other modifications have you got? Nissan is know to limit or limp if MAF signals are incorrect without any codes. Have you tried new/another MAF sensor? Just cleaning it doesn't mean jack. The main problem is that if MAF sensor reports incorrect air flow rate but within specs there will be no errors just lack of power. Engine ECU uses MAF sensor to do all its calculation, MAP or turbo pressure sensor is there only for safety limp overide or something like that. I recommend to read/record MAF voltages during a drive to see what values you're getting under loads. While it is not easy to correlate, anything bellow 2.5 V once accelerator is pushed indicates possibly incorrect reading especially if you are unable to achieve max values up to 4 V, however again if "no fuel no boost no air no fuel" no power catch apply so you must ensure/eliminate each scenario. If you have portable computer with MS software you could obtain ECUTalk USB to Nissan Consult/OBD interface and use ECUTalk software to view /log related data. Also ensure if it is manual transmission that neutral switch is working correctly, use warm up switch when cold to increase RPM when idlin in N and once you move g/lever to a gear position RPM should cut to normal idle. Regards

Hi there, welcome to the forum, I have same issue mine is 2005 GU4 series with less km though....Welcome to the dreaded wheel wobble/s issues affecting almost everyone. Mine happens very noticeably around 80 km/h and gets worse under load. I've noticed that turning steering wheel side to side can either stop it or induce it worse, usually steering right will bring it on with a vengeance. It started to happen when I rotated wheels around and got worst over the time, tyres on mine are muddiess and they're are getting worn and due for replacement. So for now I just live with it. Some change/modify swivel hub offset using aftermarket kit which supposedly fixes the issue but I still thing primary reasons are unbalanced tyres, or worn/loose wheel/hub bearings or indeed swivel hub bearings are worn and loose so removing the shims will just preload them more masking the issues. Forums are full of fixes but none are 100% proof. See this ==> https://www.patrol4x4.com/threads/wheel-wobble-final-fix-with-poll-sometimes-referred-to-as-death-wobbles.343130/ Watch this video too ==> it has very good pointers just think first... Regards

Well if you can find someone who does ECU remap for CrD engine sure especially if they do the right thing and also remove smoke map limitations aka limp mode induced by overzealous emission controls. I'd also identify and see if reducing amount of pre-heating time glow plugs take by wiring up glow plug timer modification would also increase the life span of glow plugs. The best preventative thing is watch boost and exhaust temperature during driving and act accordingly. BTW I'm led to believe Scangauge OBD2 scanner can read boost pressure as well. Don't use fully synthetic engine oil, keep an eye on fuel filter and if really want fit water separator as water in fuel is the biggest enemy of common rail diesels , fit air cleaner correct way and regularly empty catch can you fit (stick to decent one like Provent 200). Regularly inspect coolant level and condition... Enjoy the drive !

Hmm, strange and unfortunate for you. I know ZD30 coolant temp gauge is deliberately calibrated not to move past its regular operating range until it shoots past 100C but by that time is too late....hence Good idea is to get OBD2 Scangauge and that allows you to watch coolant temps properly (it will show you what engine ECU sees in real time), I've got a version of it for Di (ECUTalk) and it saved my hide a few times. So it appears that little ZD30 was overheating for a while, the previous owners knew about and got rid off it. If they towed a caravan with it then it is obvious.... I agree with buying second hand GU with ZD30 is a lottery but that infamous grenade's pin has been pulled waiting for it to go off.... Regards

G'day, 2010 CrD with extensive damage to to it! Care to elaborate as I'm really curious? 2010 vintage had problems with oil pump bolts coming loose and creating lot of mess, is that the case. EGR & Boost gauge I'm assuming you mean exhaust temperature gauge... Numbers on your to do list are almost correct but CrD D30 is little different to Di. Jury is still out on pre-filter as it adds extra strain on built in fuel lift pump. As to what Tilix valve will achieve in regards to more advanced fuel injection of CrD and its control unit there might be some issues which will require careful tuning. I think boost and exhaust temp gauges with catch can are probably most important as those gauges will alter the way you'll drive it. Catch can will keep intake clean but requires you to do regular emptying unless you find a way to auto drain it to oil sump once engine is off. Tilix valve setup allows for removal of boost control from engine ECU and unrestricted turbo spool up and much greater boost pressure which might cause issues with engine management so it needs to be tuned properly to find the sweet spot between performance and reliability with engine management not throwing a hissy and causing DTCs and engine limps especially when combined with EGR shim which many had to drill a small hole in to as a compromise to avoid engine errors. Cheers

Mate, I'm still trying to figure out what exactly you're after. Windscreen? Passenger front door window? Rear passenger door 1/4 window? Probably that one! Try here ==> https://www.nizzbits.com.au/ the bloke is very knowledgeable and reliable. Cheers

Mate, I know it is a bit late reply, I think the leak is from leak off line, either from one of the sealing washer under the banjo fitting or the line itself. Anyway, let us know what it turned out to be... Cheers

Mate, Highly unlikely you'll ever be able to get it passed in NSW. If a rust is a real problem try to obtain another body or fix the rust. Cheers