bistratoaie

No worries thanks again! Just a thought; could my ICV% be going down (to 14%) because the ECU sees the high MAFv signal and so tells the pump to cut fuel which is the fuel-cut limp?

@Rumcajs Not a problem mate! Here is a website showing how to take the module off without removing the pump from the engine, I do believe it will be very limited/difficult especially on the ZD30 but it's something I could look at? https://www.vp44diesel.de/en/vp30-44-dissasembly#01 In the VP44 manual you attached, it mentions a "self diagnostic mode". Do you know how I would access this diagnosis mode to read the codes directly from the pump? Or do you need the special cable to connect to the back of it directly? Thanks

@Rumcajs No worries thanks for your reply! I will definitely consider buying the right external lift pump ASAP! I have also seen a reputable company in the UK that repair just the EDC (electronic board) on top of the injector pump without removing the IP. I believe my issue is electrical and to do with the electronic board on top of the pump, do you think it's wise to remove it carefully and send it off for inspection/repair? Here is their ebay link; https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/REPAIR-SERVICE-Bosch-VP44-VP30-Diesel-Fuel-Injection-Pump-PSG5-EDC-EDU-Module-/283320716471#UserReviews

I will leave spool-up rate as is. I can change the gauges that ECUtalk reads, how do I change TPS V to %? Ahh okay I see so my best option NOW is an external fuel lift pump? I have had my eye on a Carter 4600 (don't know if it's any good for this car tho?). Is changing the fuel overflow line quite easy to do? EDIT: This morning at 6am on the way to work, it ran rough again (coughing/spluttering) around 2000rpm and barely went over so had to upshift early through gears to drive smoothly. When I left work, I pulled out of the driveway, got to 2nd gear and about 2000rpm again I lost power and the engine turned off by itself so I had to pull over and turn ignition off (luckily I live 2 minutes from work). I extracted codes and had 1003 (EGR) and 0705 (PUMP CONT MODULE) which is the electronic board on top of the pump right? I did clear the codes and managed to get back home safely but is it worth getting an external lift pump if I'm getting this code? Thanks again

@Rumcajs So if I adjust my boost via the tillix valve, I don't need to change to a new spoolup rate via the needle valve? The sensor is just a single type sensor on the side of the block around the 2nd Injector I believe, I can try to short it out but the dash gauge is behaving normally since I took it out and cleaned it and also cleaned and rewrapped the wiring in conduit to protect it. The gauge needle does not move when I accelerate anymore like it used to. Here are just a couple of log files from the other day, not sure if you will notice anything but maybe my MAFv are too high for the RPM? Regards, Ben ecutalk1632021_3.csv ecutalk1632021_4.csv

I believe I set up the tillix correctly, I had some help from another member on a different forum and went through all new vacuum lines including the butterfly valve and that actually fixed an issue with the car shutting down very rough. Yes, I always start with closing the needle valve completely with the engine idling then opening it to the point the arm drops down and then I opened it just about another 1/4 turn to where it's sitting at now and it's definitely running better than before, but still limps here and there very unexpectedly! AlthoughI am only on 16psi max boost, I'm thinking if I set the max boost to 20-22psi like is meant to with the remap, do I still need to mess around with the needle valve again for the spool-up rate, or can I leave it as is and work from there? I have 2 boost gauges actually and they both read the same boost pressure so I know that's all good. Do you mean the temp gauge should move/change when I unplug the connector to the sensor? I do have the factory green dampener in line coming off the vacuum source if that might be playing a part maybe?

@Rumcajs I took the temp sender (gauge one) out and give it a real good clean and disconnected the electrical connector and harness and gave it a good clean and also ran new conduit around it to protect the wire, since putting it back on I didn't notice the temperature gauge on the dash playing up like before. I also left the car idle for 10 minutes to relearn TPS just in case that played a part in all this. (ALSO: disconnecting the temp sender and starting the car did NOT change the dash gauge, it remained the same) I did play around with the tillix and needle valve and reduced boost by roughly 2 psi so it's at 15 psi now and slowed the spool-up rate as well, but it seems to have made the MAFv limp even more frequent and worse! Maybe this is where my problem is, fine tuning the tillix and needle valve to find the sweet spot? I just don't know which one is the problem, spool-up rate or boost limit? I logged a file (RPM, TPS, MAF) taking it for a quick spin up the road if you want to have a look?

Hmm could code 0705 be something to do with electrics at all, considering it only happened after a bit of rough driving on rough terrain, nothing crazy or fast but enough to shake the car. What other problem might it be? Does it sound mechanical or electrical to you? I am looking at having a different diesel specialist have a good look over the car and will let them know any and all problems, no matter how small! Ah no worries I'll have to do some log files then! It is a standard intercooler which was previously welded, I had a look today and didn't notice any oil or dust build up anywhere so that's good. I will check the resonator tomorrow when I have a bit more time.

UPDATE: I just drove it down a gravel driveway to work to help the missus for a sec, it was quite bumpy and the engine light usually comes on from the EGR block, but this time when I went to take off the car lost all power and turned off by itself, happened in 2nd gear. I turned the key off and waited a couple minutes then restarted and got back home safely, about 5 minutes away if even. When I got back I read the codes and now I have: 1003: EGR VOLUME CONTROL 75: P5-PUMP C/MODULE Does this mean my problem is the injector pump? 😫

Thanks @Rumcajs I'm having trouble logging in ECUtalk, it only creates a log for a couple of seconds and only when the car is idling, when I accelerate it doesn't show it in the log file, just the idle? Do I need to check the boxes (MAF, RPM, TPS) so they are greyed out for logging, then leave ECUtalk software running and go for a drive then once I'm done I just uncheck the boxes again and open the log file? I will check the ground connections again because my temperature gauge has been playing up too, when I accelerate the gauge goes down towards "C" but when I let off the accelerator, it goes back up to operating temperature towards "H". I know the MAF wiring is all good and intact, I even ran an extra ground from the chassis to the ground in the MAF sensor wiring when I was having issues with it months ago. I'll have to double-check the air intake pipe to see if it's cracked anywhere but I'm not sure that it is. The boost hoses were all replaced when installing the tillix and needle valve including the ones going to the butterfly valve, I will go over them and make sure none of them are swollen or damaged. Air filter was replaced about 1000kms ago maybe so I don't think that is an issue but then again, I will check it too. How would I go about checking the resonator and a leak in the intercooler? One thing I have noticed, when I'm applying the throttle just normally or lightly, it seems to hesitate, only in gears 3 to 5 and around 2000rpm and above. Although, if I press the throttle down hard from gears 1 all the way through 5 (revving up to 3000rpms), it runs perfectly fine and doesn't have any problems getting up to 100km/h, it doesn't hesitate if I apply hard pressure to the accelerator, only if I'm going gently on it or easing into it.

Back again lol So about 2 weeks into having the remapped ECU, everything was going perfectly fine so I was happy. Then one day the missus and I decided to take the Patrol into town about 40 minutes each way. On the way there, it drove great with no issues. On the way back about 10 minutes from home it jerked/hesitated just a couple of times, I was very annoyed by this as you can imagine. When I got home, I checked the codes via ECUtalk and had a code 0406 AIR/INT volume - excessively high signal from MAF sensor and of course the EGR code. So, I got in contact with the people who did the remap and they run me through a few checks, I mentioned that the MAF sensor was replaced maybe 2000 kms ago. He mentioned it sounded more like a fuelling issue rather than limp mode (due to high boost) and then asked me what brand it was and I said Nissan OEM but it seems I bought a fake one on fleabay that was a Nissan OEM branded one not the genuine Hitachi ones they come out with from the factory. I ordered the right Hitachi one and just received it this Monday, disconnected the battery and took the old one out and they did look a little different. Put the new sensor in and connected the battery a little while after. Before doing test drives, I checked the MAFv via ECUtalk. The old sensor ranged from 2.16-2.18v @ idle The genuine Hitachi sensor ranged from 2.1-2.14v @ idle (that’s a little better already) But when I took it for a drive to the Post Office 15 minutes away, on the way home the missus said she felt it jerk again, it didn't do it bad almost barely noticeable but she noticed it. I thought I'd have a look for codes again once I got home so I connected the ECUtalk cable and again got the same two codes, 1003 EGR and 0406 INT/AIR VOLUME. I was surprised because it was a new genuine sensor with already lower MAFv readings than the previous fake Chinese one but it must somehow still be reaching MAFv above the threshold. I thought the remap was meant to fix all this or am I wrong thinking that? I did play around with opening the needle valve to try and slow down the spool-up rate but it didn't change the fact I was still getting high MAFv and it just made the car a little more sluggish. I have read about small amounts of oil vapour heading back to the air intake and in turn contaminating the MAF sensor if you don't have a catch can fitted which I DO NOT at this point in time. Could that possibly be causing my issues with the higher voltages? I have seen a small amount of oil in the intercooler pipes a week or so ago when I took it off to replace all vacuum lines so I cleaned all that up but maybe I have oil contaminating my new MAF sensor giving the ECU higher readings than what they actually are and causing the fuel-cut problem? Any help is appreciated, cheers!

@Rumcajs No worries thanks for the info! I have mine now set up like the 2nd diagram you sent me, with the tillix and needle valve bypassing the factory vacuum solenoid and the vacuum cannister removed. It runs beautifully with no more limp or fuel cut and doesn't struggle going up an incline like before. I haven't yet experimented with the vacuum solenoid and just the tillix to limit the boost but I was told by the tuner to use tillix and needle valve. I guess I can experiment and try with the vacuum solenoid if you suggest so and see if there's much difference in performance and drivability. Thanks again!

@rum678 Hi @Rumcajs I just received my remapped ECU today and was looking forward at having the time to install the new tillix and needle valve but time ran short in-between work so I'll finish it off after work today. Can you help me with some info/pics on all the vacuum lines install of the tillix and needle valves. I have read the PDF manual containing all the instructions but they don't make sense for me, I'm lost with a few lines and also where the dampener comes into play. Any help would be much appreciated, then I can finally plug in the ECU and drive it 😁

@rum678 Thanks for your detailed experience! I'm quite confident to go for the ECU remap and I will be giving them a call today to discuss options, although I am in Victoria. If I get it remapped, do I have to remove the manual boost controller as the ECU will manage the boost properly? As I mentioned, I dropped the boost to 16psi via the boost controller and have not had fuel cut since, I occasionally get cold limp on early morning drives to work (I'm up at 5am), but once I let off its back to normal, I can't see the MAF voltage in real-time, have not yet bought an ECUtalk display unit which I will be doing very soon. Does the grub screw limit the boost via the actuator? Or does it control the spoolup rate of the turbo? Do I have to adjust it when using the manual boost controller? It's unfortunate I can't get my hands on a voltage modifier, judging by what I've read they seem like nifty tools to "tune" the vehicle with some impressive results! If I post a couple of pictures, would you be able to tell me if the boost solenoid is hooked up correctly in terms of the vacuum lines? I bought some 4mm port blocks and put them on, I think it's the right way but you seem to know ALOT more than I do about all this 😅 Thanks mate 🍻

Thanks @Rumcajs I thought the HPD MAF housings & upgraded air intake kits were bigger to allow more airflow thus not allowing the MAF voltage to reach the limp mode? Or is it the other way around, bigger internal diameter means more air which means a higher voltage reading? Ah, I was reading that the Turbosmart FCD-2 basically clips the voltage to say 3.99V so that it cannot go into the limp stage? If it doesn't take boost into consideration, it says in the manual to either hook it into the MAF signal wire to the ECU or the boost sensor signal wire depending which one sends the signal to the ECU. Isn't the factory solenoid limited to 16psi roughly? So I can buy an ECU from East Coast Performance Tuning and get them to remap it or send mine to them to remap? How much did it end up costing you if you don't mind me asking?

@Rumcajs So just to revive the thread back again, my original "hesitation" issue was the fuel cut from the ECU due to the MAF voltages being too high. Also managed to open the log files finally they started working properly and I could read the data! I have fitted a HPD boost controller just after I did the glow plugs and had it set to around 18 psi, it would occasionally hit 20 psi, I had a beep set on my gauge for an overboost warning but she drove fine. I had no issues since doing the work on it, even took it for a 4hr trip one weekend up and down windy roads etc and all was great, EGTs were good barely reached 400°c. The other day on a 50 minute drive to town, it started to hesitate just a couple of times and slightly, I was quite annoyed because it was very unexpected. I immediately pulled over and luckily had some tools in the car and I turned down the boost just a bit (16 psi) to try and avoid hitting the fuel cut. I still managed to get to town and bought some MAF cleaner to give it a good clean when I got home. On the drive home I only could manage to get to 80kph, I don't think it hit fuel cut but it was constantly stuck in a limp mode. When I got home I took the MAF sensor out and gave it a good spray to clean it, I also replaced all the vacuum hoses for the boost/turbo lines as some of them were old and frail from rubbing etc and made sure they were all on tight and zip tied, I also double checked the boost controller was set right and I am hitting 16 psi. Took it for a drive and it was behaving nicely didn't hesitate/ hit fuel cut but I'm wondering what the best option is to remove fuel cut/limp mode? I know they don't make the jaycar voltage modifier anymore and I'm not too sure about adding a diode/resistor in the MAF wiring, I have also read about the turbosmart FCD-2 as an option? I also know HPD make an upgraded MAF housing which apparently increases airflow by 30% and eliminates limp mode but I am a bit skeptical about spending $250 right now unless I know it's going to fix the problem, anyone have any ideas/solutions? Thanks!

@Rumcajs thanks for the helpful info! Just an update: I ordered a set of Bosch metal tip glow plugs and installed them all which went well, making sure to clean any oil or anything that was on the cam cover, checked the seals and they were all fine too, cleaned and wire brushed the rail too so it was nice and shiny and made sure it's not earthing out anywhere on the cover! Contact cleaned the connector and measured voltage to it (12.3V with ignition on) so it's getting power. Also installed the PowerTrain Glow Plug Timer mod which came up a treat, weather is warmer now so only need a few seconds of glow/afterglow and my starting issues are all under control and it fires right up everytime! 😁 I ordered a replacement primer pump with a bleed screw and that came with a new seal that sits around the thread and installed that too, the old one was definitely leaking air from the diaphram inside because I could hear it when I took it off to replace it, I pumped it while blocking the fuel inlet side and was a very slight air leak I could hear so that was a problem. With the new one in its now starting perfectly as well as staying firm overnight! No more air issues for me 😁 am yet to corelate the ICV% values with the new one once all the air has self bled from the system and I can create a log on ECUTalk. Still not sure how to open the log file?

@Rumcajs So no air bubbles at all which is good but why won't my primer stay firm even after starting the car and turning off after idling for 2 minutes, the primer takes another 3-4 pumps to go firm again? Maybe the primer is shot? Ah okay I'll have a look at creating a log later when I go around the block!

I've also tried to do a log file like you said but when I open it on Notepad, I don't see any values correlating to the data that I was logging for the sensors I chose. How do I create a log and where do I find it/open it so I can see all the values? Cheers

@Rumcajs I managed to finally get some clear 10mm hose to see if I can see any air going to the IP and relate to the ICV% and this is what I found. **Can't upload videos here at the moment. Video 1: idling (after 3 days of not starting it); A couple of little bubbles in the line to IP but then was all just diesel flowing through, watched it for about a minute and no bubbles. ICV% was at 34-38%. Video 2: holding revs @ 2000prm correlating to ICV% values; Still no air that I can visually see but after turning the car off the primer took 2 pumps to become fully firm again (maybe air getting in before the filter?) The ICV% values were at 42% @2000rpm then spiked to 57.8% when decelerating then stayed around 35% on idle again. How do these figures sound? Still no error codes just for EGR. 20201116_142040.mp4

Ah yes, the higher reading is due to a 3" straight through exhaust and the EGR blocked off which I read on another thread that 2.15v is okay on idle however; I did notice it linearly got to 4v around 3000-3500rpm while revving and watching the voltage. I do believe I have air in the system from the "3rd small o-ring" at the fuel filter primer because the fuel filter was replaced last month and I think they may have lost or forgotten that o-ring as the primer doesn't stay hard over a few hours or overnight and I have to prime it 3 times before it goes fully firm and I can start it so I'm thinking that's my issue until I can confirm it tomorrow when I check! What is an external lift pump and how easy is it to add? Is there a thread for it? I will check all the fuel lines and clamps and under the cargo and see what I find from there on. How do I bleed the air though? This is the main thing. Thanks for the reply

So I just got my ECUTalk cable today and these are my readings on first start up of the day 26°c outside. Do these readings look okay so far @Rumcajs? Am yet to diagnose my glow plugs.

Thankyou very much for your helpful information! I will check them tomorrow and look at doing the timer mod with ceramic glow plugs to prolong the life and not have to worry for a very long time 😁 So how would I go about bleeding the air properly from the fuel system? Have I been doing it right in priming while cranking and while the engine idles? I don't see a bleed screw or anything to bleed the air to the upmost part of it's path so I'm not sure how to do it correctly if you can help with that thankyou. Feel like I'm slowly getting to the bottom of things by process of elimination, it's just the hard starting that's my only issue at the moment as well as some air in the fuel which is an educated guess so far but I want to bleed the system to make sure of it!

If I connect the clear hose and I see bubbles, how would I remove them from the system? I have tried priming while cranking and also primed when the engine started for about 2 minutes, think I did 200 pumps in that time. Ah okay how would I check the glow plugs? I did spray the connector to them and was alot of dust and dry mud inside and the metal line that connects them all doesn't look great either! If I am to replace them do I need the ceramic tip ones? I want to do the timer mod on them also and use the metal ones if they hold up better/longer. It's usually around 6-7°c on average most mornings. Ah all good I used a big zip tie and tied it around nice and tight right in the middle where the screw used to be.

Have not had the 0703 code again, only 1003 which is for the EGR. Although it does take a while/few times to crank to get it started overnight, primer goes fully hard in about 3-4 pumps so I'm thinking there may be some air in the system? Do you know the best & easiest way to bleed air out of the system @Rumcajs? Would it be loosen an Injector a bit and crank then check primer till it gets fully hard on say 1 push? Thanks!