ricster

"Noise is a pollution not rock n' roll..... " AC/DC sang it best.... Rock & roll ain't noise pollution !!!

Hmmmm... greenies don't like my smokin' 6 cylinder turbo wizzing 3" straight through exhaust Iron Maiden !!!

Hey... leave my old 4.2 donkey alone..... hahahaha Yeah, a little healthy banter never hurt anyone, but sometimes people pull the ...... out of it and then it gets ugly. Anyways ... Welcome to the forum.... from far far away in South Africa.....( We come from far and wide to see what you Aussies are up to ,,,,,hahahaha )

is it not a water outlet.... or am I barking up the wrong tree.... Are you talking about the filter itself or the air box? Hey I have blonde hair.... that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.....hahahaha

I don't think there is anything wrong with your glow plugs. They only glow on start up, and up till the water temp reaches 50 degC, thereafter the glow plugs just sit there looking pretty and do nothing......hahaha. When last did you check the air filter? Mine tends to do that too when the filter is getting clogged up. If you have like me, the ZD30 airbox, then I'm sure a new filter will help get rid of the black/grey smoke. That colour smoke is indicating that not all the diesel is getting properly used/burnt. This means either over-fueling or insufficient air. So unless you recently fiddled the fuel screw around..... my deduction is not enough air.

Skid, your intercooler I think is going to be trial an error way to remove it. I don't know what IC you have on there and how it was fitted, but usulally there are 4 dolts holding the IC onto either the motor or with 2 bars fixed to the body. If there is a fan under (or on top ) your IC, don't forget to disconnect the wires otherwise it can make a problem when you move your intercooler to the floor whilst swinging a Patrol behind it.....hahahaha Then its a simple removal of the tappet cover.....except for the 2 bolts at the back against the firewall. They aren't difficult to get out, just damn awkwardunless you are 6 foot 55 tall. I never took out the glow plugs or injectors when I did mine. I got mine to TDC on no1 cylinder ( both valves closed ) by turning the motor with a ratchet. You will "easily" turn the motor..... well easier then taking out glow plugs. However you can take out the no 1 glow plug and stick a piece of wire down there to check the pistons movements, but I found it too much trouble and extra work. so in short ... 1) tappet cover off 2) turn motor ( by hand ) to get valves on no 1 to both closed 3) turn motor slightly to get TDC mark on crank pulley to align up with the mark on the block 4) set your tappets to your hearts content 5) refit tappet cover and IC and away ya go

If you don't have a gauge to see what the EGT's are, I would strongly suggest getting one fitted. This will save your motor. I stay in South Africa in the Johannesburg area which is around 1600m above sea level and a N/A diesel is a donkey at this altitude, Even though mine is a GU, it came out as a N/A (black top), but had had an aftermarket turbo and intercooler fitted. At this altitude, mine had the boost set at 0.5 bar ( 7 psi ) which is fine if you want to just toddle around, but if you can control the EGT's with getting the right amount of air to diesel you can push up the boost. I am currently running 0.8 bar ( 12 psi ) and mine pulls like a beast. Now if I floor it on a long uphill I can stay in 5th and cruise up the hill at 120km/h with my EGT's sitting at 600 deg C. My revs sit at just the sweet spot, but if the hill is steeper and the revs drop down ( or if the egt's go higher than 630 deg C ) then I slap it into 4th and can easily hold 110 to 115 Km/h up a hill with EGT's sitting between 580 and 610 deg C. A mate of mine had same GQ with Safari turbo and front mount IC ( with 400 000Km on the clock ), and his would kick ass towing a huge camping trailer. Another guy on the South African Patrol forum has a GU ( same as mine ) who has pushed the boost up to 1 bar ( 15psi )..... this was what he posted on the thread " I upped the boost to 1 bar and it spikes to 1.1 bar, gave it some more fuel to match the boost and modified the aneroid fuel pin a bit to deliver a bit more fuel under full boost.The results are higher than expected, but we will verify this at the next dyno day.....181kw and 497Nm " That is some pretty mean power right there. Here is a link to his post if you want to do a little reading. http://patrol4x4.co.za/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=4828&start=110#p71639

Welcome .... Don't be horse-style bud, post a nice pic of your ride !!.....hahahahaha

Nice pics !!!!! You new machine looks the boss when sitting in the sand next to that other thing....

Very nice buy there !!!!! Looks to be in pretty decent condition too Well done !!

i think everyone was focused on Valentines day..... hahahahaha..... I gave my one valentine a bottle of nice perfume, and my other valentine a full body wash, sort of a wax on wax off type of thing.....

Actually me thinks you are quite correct.... apologies

Hmmmmm.... its been a long while since I last fiddled with the hand break drum, but if I recall correctly there is a piece of spring steel that slides on the serrated nut that you are moving with the screwdriver. It basically allows one directional adjustment, which will tighten up the braking mechanism making it grab the brake drum sooner. I cant recall the exact positioning of that spring steel, if it is on top or bottom, but if you take a thin, but ridged piece of wire and jiggle it around it there till you feel like you are lifting something springy ( or peer in the hole with a torch may help locate it ), then try lift it up first then hold it up and rotate the serrated wheel with the screwdriver. The screwdriver may slip easier rotating it the in the "loosening" direction due to the design of the serrations on the nut. I wouldn't drive it around with it so tight, the heat generated can cause all sorts of issues with the rubber seals and boiling brake fluid !!

In my opinion, on a ZD motor, a catch can is a definite must have. I have a 4.2 with aftermarket turbo and IC and it definitively helps on mine !! Where to get one.... well I'm in South Africa, so can't help there !!

hahaha.... yeah, and it actually got a little deeper.... about halfway up the spotties. got a good bow wave going and sailed ( no pun intended ) through it.

I took the Iron Maiden out for a little leg stretching and an undercarriage wash this weekend..... Ahhhhh.... I love the smell of diesel in the mornings !!

Hello 2016 !!! All of the breast and I hope you feel many more in this new year !!!!

Very nice indeed !!!!

Yeah, the std scoops are rubbish. I got the hell in one morning a few years back and got a scoop extender bent up from some scrap steel plate and then I cut a hole into the standard scoop and bolted the new steel on on top. This basically doubles the area for air to flow in, and is higher so hopefully getting better airflow onto the IC. One thing I had to be careful of was going too high and as a result obstructing my view over the bonnet. What I can tell you though is it DID make a difference of about 20 deg C to my EGT's. I can't find any pics here on my work PC that show the scoop other than these taken when we were traveling in the snow up high in the hills.

I would give almost anything to get that 3D drawing !!!! I want to build a new aux tank for my Patrol. Mine is a strange setup.... I have the Sub tank switch on the dashboard, but my fuel gauge only shows for the main tank ( no sub tank gauge on the top ). I also have a 60L stainless tank fitted where the aux tank should be fitted, but this only carries water, and looks like it was never intended to be connected to the main tank for diesel. So, If I can either make a tank like this and fit it where my current water tank is, and then move my water tank to the opposite side ( would have to re route my exhaust to run parallel to the propshaft ) then I would be smiling from ear to ear. Now where can I get a CAD drawing of a tank like that.... or similar??? Here in South Africa there doesn't seem to be much available and the exchange rate kills us here if we import from overseas.

keep us posted on the outcome !!

ditto on that !!! Worn brake pads can do that. On some pads there is a piece of flat steel that acts as a notification device to tell you that its time to change the pads. Take the wheel off and gently pry that metal tag away from the brake disk. Put the wheel back on, drive around and hear if it still makes that noise. If the noise is gone, then replace the brake pads immediately !!..... before that jam up on you and prevent you from stopping before hitting a road train !!

Nice looking rims there !!!!

Those are neat looking switches !!!

A road side test would be to take a clean clear glass bottle and place the small hose that hangs below the filter into the bottle and open the "tap" to bleed out about 100ml of fluid. examine the fluid in the bottle. Diesel will float on top of the water, and any water will, depending on quantity, will either bead up and sit on the bottom of the bottle, or if there is a lot, it will show a clear flat disk shape of clear liquid. One would need to have a fair amount of water in there to illuminate the dash light. I usually tap off a few milliliters every time I do a service ( 5000km ) just to make sure all is well.