skid

I will eventually get to that

Current problem is when I'm driving and hit the brake or use indicators my stereo dims as though I have turned on the headlights. weird thing is some ties it does it for the duration of the trip, other times it will do it for a few seconds the stereo back to normal, its causing me grief with my reversion camera, I have owned this truck for less than a month, and am finding things like this out every day, I've tried to earth the rear indicators and tail lights and brake lights with diodes which made no difference, its as though when I use the indicators etc it is finding earth though my stereo.. Haven't tried running the camera off the wires for my trailer plug yet as the previous owner ripped and mangled the wiring when 4wding.. I have checked and made sure no of the wires for the trailer plug are shorting. Have run an earth from battery to engine, have run an earth from battery to body from battery, have run an earth from the head unit to body, and it still does the same thing, but it is so wierd, when I finished the earths I turned the unit on and as soon ats the dash lights lit up it interfered with the stereo as though it was trying to power up the reversing camera, same deal with indicators, hit brake or using indicators does the same.... Then I turned the key to light up all the dash lights a second time and it did not interfere with anything, Any ideas and suggestions appreciated..

I got lumbered with a ZD30 2 weeks ago with a zd30 engine, the guy told me the noise at the front of the engine was just the belt squealing and handed me a new belt. after replacing the belt and the tensioner pulley the noise stopped for about 30 minutes then started again. If I spray anything on the belt the noise stops or is reduced to almost stopped, It is embarrassing to drive, the squealing is so loud, if I'm lucky after the engine has warmed up the noise is almost gone when the engine is idling. I have an alternator here given to me when I bought a converted zd30 about 2 years ago, so am going to try swapping alternators around to see if that make a difference as the alternator on the car is a higher amp one with a clutch and the other one is a stock alternator with a solid pulley. Any advise or suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I started hating the car after owning it for an hour.... Please help, all ideas etc will be tried to stop the squealing...

Mine was originally a 2000 ZD30, but was converted to a TD42 by the previos owners...

Got a problem with my Drivers windows when cold, if I press the auto button to wind it up, it will wind up all the way then back down about 3 inches, have only discovered this problem in the last week or so on cold mornings, if I keep pressing on the switch it will wind all the way up. anyone experienced this before? If so how did you fix it, what was the problem? Cheers

No checkerplate on rock sliders... when it made the noise today, if I touched the accelerator pedal ever so slightly to bring the revs up from 750 to 800ish the sound goes away... Any ideas?

I have an annoying Vibrating sound? when I hop out of my wagon, I hear a vibrating sound, if I put weight on my rock sliders it stops, if I climb back into my car it stops, if I climb under it and put pressure or pull on nearly ever component it stops, If I pull on the spring it stops, if I put pressure on my rear bumper it stops!!!! Can some one guide me into what to look for PLEASE, as its doing me head in

Mine has got a 3 inch exhaust, but when I put my foot down doesn't sound grunty at all. I hear some patrols drive by and you can hear the turbo whistling and they sound like a v8 but are only 4.2's. if I block off the resonator in my air filter will it give a better tone? what else can/should I do to make it sound like a beast?

The bit in the center....

Its part of the box, right in the center, the filter goes around it...

Dumb question but when replacing the air filter for the first time since I got the car last year, I notice that there is a tube in the middle of it which seems to go no where, What is its purpose? Do I need to block it off for my snorkel properly? Thank in advance

I've done near 20K on it fro when I bought it last year and it had just over 300K then, I have no idea on the history of the glow pligs or injectors being serviced, so when I get paid I'll order some glow plugs to start with, then I'llbe on the hunt for injectors, do you have any idea what price I'll be looking at to replace the injectors and glow plugs?

its good to know that I don't need to stress about my glow plug light. re my td42 yes it was originally out of a 1990 GQ non turbo, the previous owner converted it from a zd30 when he blew it up to a TD42 silver top so assume as per your comment " By any chance yours isn't also turbo charged (non genuine) " so agree with your comment of " yours is missing a smoke box aka smoke limiter or compensator ", so where do I start with regards to curing it and making or fitting a smoke limiter, or should I just not worry about it, apart from a plume of smoke every time I start it, it's more of an embarrassment when I first start

I have a 2000 GU series 2 which was originally a 3Ltr but the previous owner converted it to a 4.2Ltr being a 4.2 silvertop, the problem I have is when I glow the plugs, the light stays on for about 3 seconds, if the motor is already warm the light will only stay on for a second, where and how to I make adjustments to make the plugs glow longer? Also when I start the motor regardless if the motor is hot or cold, the is a cloud of blackish/greyish smoke, I really notice at night if I put my foot down going up a hill and there is a car behind me, it looks like I have flicked a switch to turn on smoke screen mode!!!! during the day if I put the foot down sometimes I can see a bit of black smoke. The motor has done 320000, other than the above problems/concerns it runs well

Mine IC is held on by onto either the motor or with 2 bars fixed to the body.

My 2000 GU had a heart transplant done by the previous owners from a 3Ltr which they blew up to a TD42 from a 1990 silvertop, Am trying to figure out how to remove the intercooler to get to the tappet cover to remove it so I can adjust the tappet clearances as they are getting a bit noisy.. if any one has tips on making the job easier please let me know, like do i loosen off the injectors or the glow plugs to make it easier to turn the motor by hand etc. but my primary challenge is getting to the tappet cover first...

On one of the forums someone says if you leave that nit out you neef to put in some form of spacer for support, can you confirm, if its a case of leaving that whole assemble out, and I have piece of mind that I wont break the hub 4wding, I'kk drop them out during my lunch break...

Can you describe or show me " refit what is the actual manual locking mechanism. " is please...

I don't need to pry out the part in your pictures as when I took the hubs off they came out separately. No I didn't lock the hubs first, I only found that out after removing them doing the wheel bearings and putting hubs back on and the problem started.... I didn't grease them up as they were already full of grease, So do I simply leave that whole assembly out, or do I pull the guts out of it and put piece pictured in your post back in? Also the eg ring thing was sticking out about 3 mm and with a gentle tap of the hammer it now sits flush, should I also remove the egg ring and re seat it back to where it was? Replacing the brake pads, and doing the wheel bearing up was going so well until I screwed up, any further advice would be appreciated....

2000 Gu Patrol Auto Hubs, My tyre place recommended I nip up my wheel bearings as they were a little loose, all that went well but when I put the hubs back in it what I though was the reverse order I now have dramas, The hubs will work in the lock position and 4wd engaged, but if I have them in the auto selection when I engage 4wd I get a clunking sound, i tried reading my manuals I have here but they aren't much help. any advise would be appreciated

Don't think there would be an issue of boiling brake fluid as the drum brake is all cable operated... Correct me if I'm wrong...

I managed to loosen it off this morning, yesterday after a long drive the drum was so hot if I squirted water on it , it sizzled like a hot plate...Hopefully all good now Worst case of something did get too hot I'll just pull the drum etc off my old GQ as it still hasn't sold and reading the manuals and looking at parts on line, the drum the shoes and everything else is the same between the GQ and the GU....

I tried adjusting the drum shoes on the back of my transmission, I rotated the cog sever times until it was tight, but I cant seem to turn it in the opposite direction to loosen it off, feel like there is a spring or something stopping it rotating in the opposite direction, as I put the screw driver on it, move it about half a centimeter and when I let go it kicks the screw drive up to where I started, I couldn't reverse out of my driveway today, Ended up putting it in low range, reversing out into street and taking it for a long drive, how can I loosen the adjuster, any help would be appreciated Cheers in advance

I was replacing a switch on the dash of my GU as no mater what position it was in my spotties where on when high beam was selected, there was another switch next to it which looked like it had something to do with lighting as iut had a picture of a head lamp on it, looking at the plugs that were plugged into it, was a very average job done be previous owners. My problem now is low beam works, if I switch to high beam only the left hand head light lights up, but if I very slowly pull the lever towards the flash head lights position, both the hed lights hig beam work and my spotties work, I've tested all the relays and fuses that are obvious but for the life of me cant figure it out, any suggestions greatly appreicated

My daughter bough me a set of After market gauges being boost, pyro, water temp and oil pressure for Christmas, the are Autotecnia brand all are electric anolog in nature, the water temp one and the oil pressure ones in particular when the ignition is turned on and they do their initial calibration do not return to zero mark, the sit around the second black mark on the dial, is this normal and to be expected for gauges that only cost about 60 or so each? I would expect if I had paid big dollars for top of the line gauges I'd expect them to work perfectly and accurately, the reading when running are with in spec, apart from the boost gauge, which if I floor it reaches 8PSI and once or twice I saw it reach 10 PSI, the previous gauges, the boost read 12-14 PSI and the saas water temp gauge always sat on zero when the motor was cold prior to starting it. The new water temp gauge read about 75 when running with the air con running where as the saas gauge always read 82. The water temp sender unit was stuffed out of the box and the gauge would read all over the place, so I have had to put my saas sender unit back in. Should I be concerned and send them back? The seller is being a royal pain about it all, and i may have to get Ebay and or Paypal involved... I'm at the very least sending the water temp sender unit back...