davrol

Cheers for the reply. That was the plan but thought id see whether anyone had the info. I will put some info up once i have found all the bits.

Hi, Just wondering whether anyone has had any luck purchasing aftermarket inter cooler hoses for the ZD30DI? I would like to replace mine but would love to purchase new ones first so i can swap straight over as opposed to removing hoses & taking somewhere to match up. any info appreciated. Cheers

Thanks for your detailed reply. Got home last night and degreased the crap out of that side of the block and dried. Ran the engine for a good 30 mins & drove around the block a couple of times and bugger me if I could see any oil. I was resided to the fact that it must have been residual oil left over from prior to the resealing of the oil pressure adaptor. I then started to look at the gauge. As soon as I touched the sensor wire on back of the gauge it started jumping all over the place. Made sure it was connected correctly and still when I wiggle the wire it started to jump all over the place and sometimes it would start to flash at me like it could not see the sensor. I will do a little more troubleshooting tonight by removing all the wiring and inspecting but I am pretty sure the gauge is faulty. Another thing I picked up last night was when I let it idle up to operating temp it rests at 20PSI but as soon as I touch the throttle and give it a rev it goes up but then back down to 10PSI and stays there. When I was packing up I glanced down the sensor wire to see if I could pick up any potential issues with the external wiring and I noticed a small drop of oil on top of bell housing which then ran down the crack between the bell housing and gearbox. After getting mirrors and inspecting the back of the block and not seeing anything, off with the IC. Wallah! 3 injector oil seals leaking. There were pools in each valley which was working it way to the back of block and dripping down onto bell housing. I a going to get a mechanical gauge to test the pressure on passenger side so I know it is safe to drive but while I am at it do you think I could plumb the provent back in on that side as well ? Thanks again. Cheers

Rumcajs, A little more information the I have found out today. As is said I had to replace the original sensor as it was broken. When I checked the Tridon website it lists the thread as 1/8 gas (BSP) this is on all oil pressure switches for patrol. I know BSP & NPT are similar but as I am having issues I feel to rule it out I will need to get a 1/8 BSP male T with 1 x 1/8 BSP female for original sensor & 1/8 NPT for aftermarket sensor. These are available through speco. Cheers Dave

Had another look underneath and it appears to be leaking still. This would surely affect pressure. How is you oil pressure gauge setup?

Thanks for the reply. I will check all of that Do you know at what pressure the low oil light should come on? Cheers

Recently installed my racetech oil pressure guage. Went in through a joiner onto a t piece above starter motor. Joiner onto one side of T & into block, otherside of the T into original sensor & aftermarket sensor pointing down towards the ground. It had a very minor leak at first so i have just pulled it all out and redone( with the right deep sockets this time ). I used loctite into blok and into t piece and teflon for both sensors. The original sensor was damaged so i reapalced it. The oil level has never been off the I am getting 10 psi at idle warm even before resealing the sensors. Using penrite HPR15 50. The oil level is def correct. At the top end of indicator on dipstick. It has a proven t catch can as well. I guess i am hopong that racetecfh gauges are known for there faults or something to do with catch can becuse that oil pressure difference between 10 & the recommended 21 seems big to me. @ 2000RPms it is about 60 and 4000 about 90 and factory low oil light does not come on. Could it be how i have installed the sensors ? Should i have put original sensor facing ground and aftermarket straight off? Any info appreciated. Cheers Dave

Have you tested your boost gauge to make sure it is working correctly? That was what the issue was with mine. Cheers

It was the MAF sensor. It had less than 1v at idle and nothing changed when revved. Got a new MAF and working fine. I will getting a spare at some point to keep in my spares box. Cheers

Hi, I have a 2003 ZD30 Patrol. I am currently in QLD on holidays from Sydney. I am experiencing extreme power loss and I am not to sure what is going on. The engine has nads ( dawes with HD spring, needle, catch can, EGR block, egt & boost gauges ) staunbaur chip. I drove it up from Sydney and it was running great. I had to tweak the needle a little as it was cruising on 15psi eventually getting it to cruise at 100 at about 10psi. I took it to fraser island and I was extremely happy with it on the sand and then I stopped for lunch after driving from Bottom of island to kingfisher bay and it became an absolute dog with no power. The only thing that that was out of the ordinary ( that I know of ) was coming up the last hill before getting to kingfisher I heard this chattering noise when reversing back to get out of someone's way but it went away as soon as it happened so I thought nothing of it. I later worked out that my bottom piece of fan shroud had somehow become dislodged and got chewed up a little by the engine fan. The car is still boosting to 15psi but it does go down a little if I keep my foot into it to 11-12 psi. So far I have Removed battery terminals for 30 mins. Drove from Noosa to Eumundi and still the same. Checked air filter and it is clean. Tested boost gauge by putting 15 psi up the line to it and bang on. Dawes is opening at 15 psi. Replaced fuel filter to rule it out. Blew some compressed air back up line to the tank and it went through fine. Took a fuel sample and clean as a bell & no water. Removed maf to see if it was dirty and it was fine but I cleaned with MAF cleaner anyway. Checked codes by jumping pins 1 & 8 on diagnostic plug and got codes 0505 which is no code detected. Checked all around fan shroud for any damaged wiring and the wiring is a fair way from it so nothing found there. Removed inter cooler and found a little oil on the underside. I am little worried about this but as it is still boosting to a decent level I thought it couldn't be cooler but please correct me if I am wrong. For the record I do have a cross country cooler waiting for me when I get back. I did have some issues about 2 weeks prior to leaving with high boost levels when trialling different springs in dawes. My inline filter was cracked and was not getting correct reading on gauge and potentially could have pushed the cooler over its limit, but as I said it was fine all the way up to QLD and up until lunch on Fraser island 2 days ago. The EGTs are staying extremely low. I keep my foot flat to floor in 5th for 20 seconds or so and it does not go above 300 degs. Even going over gateway bridge in bris and they would not go above 300deg. Everything in my head says it is fuel related but hey that is my petrol head talking I am currently on the gold coast and leaving on Thursday. I think it will get home but I would really like to try and put a finger on what da heck is going on before I make the trip home. I am thinking of taking it to an auto elec to see if they can plug into diags and come for a drive with me to see if there is anything to be seen there. Does anyone else have any ideas? Also are there any members on the gold coast that would be happy to lend us a hand with a fresh pair of eyes . I would really appreciate anyone's help. Thanks in advance. Cheers Dave 0424-796-069.

Worked out why my truck was hitting limp. All weekend I have been trying different springs from here and there and they were only getting to 7-10 psi on my gauge. After the 4th spring doing the same thing I started to wonder why. Blew 15 psi up line to boost gauge and only getting to 5 psi. Hmmm. I did not believe it at first. Got under the bonnet with my mate who was blowing air to gauge and I heard this hissing noise from the filter. Bingo! Inline filter to gauge was cracked. It was over boosting and that is why it went into limp mode. After fixing the gauge it was hitting 25psi. Oops! Adjusted and back to hitting 15 at 2500 and boost peaks at 17. No limp with foot flat to the floor right through rev range. Man it goes good.

Thanks heaps! I could just transfer money for spring ( and the costs of freight you paid for it) & an express post satchel into your bank account. If I transfer Monday it should go into your account Tuesday. That is if you have time to put it in express post for me. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks again! Cheers Dave

Thanks. Trying to find a HD spring for a dawes locally as I think I have left it too late to get from US before I travel to QLD. You don't want to part with one of your spares do you? I will pay for it of course. Cheers

Rumcajs Went to Jaycar to get Voltage modifier but they tell me they no longer sell it. It says available on the website, so I think I might just order online. You don't happen to know the dimensions of the HD spring for dawes do you? Length and width. Cheers Dave

Hello again, Still waiting on my IC to come. They have a new story every week after telling me the week before it is on its way. Anyway. Got a newer HD spring for the dawes valve. It was not the one from 3 Barr. Was actually a spring out of a gas valve exactly same diameter as the one in it and thicker coils. It was a little long but I trimmed it down and it works a treat. Or at least I think it does.... I am pretty sure I have now experienced limp mode. I pretty much have it set up exactly the same as before I changed the spring but now when I keep it under moderate to high load for 5 seconds or so it looses power.I take foot off & re-apply & it is fine. I have wound the dawes down to 12-13 but it still does it. Surely my gauge could not be 5psi out. I have done a little research and found similar symptoms with faulty TPS or change fuel filter/air filter. Fuel filter is 15000kms old so maybe, but I generally only get fuel from the same Caltex and 15000kms isn't that old for a fuel filter is it? Air filter is the same kms. I will blow air filter out tomorrow to rule it out. I just think it is too convenient that I have changed the spring and now this is happening. Before you ask I lost the original damn spring. I swore I put it in my cup holders but it is not there. Grrrrrr!!!! I can buy the 3 barr spring but if it is not boosting above 13 I am not sure how it could go into limp in relation to boost at these levels ( on what I have learnt so far). I am driving up to QLD next week and doing a day trip to Fraser and I want to try and have this sorted before then. Is there anyone on here in Sydney that has ECU talk or a cable and software ( and a fridge to put some beer in ) that may be able to give us a hand? Any help appreciated. Cheers Dave