Booster

What the hell are they made of? Not even a dint on the front tie rod after bouncing off a tree. WTF???

These are TUFF!!

I usually find the biggest tree I can and drag it back to camp and cut it up there.

Simple. A wood chuck can chuck as much wood as a wood chuck can chuck.

Ok its been a while now. Ive bought some 33/12/15 federal couragias after hitting bunyip in the wet and having absolutely no grip at all on the all terrains. Ive hooked up some spotties (el cheapos) and got the engine running and starting reliably. Im very impressed at the economy im getting out of it. Im getting about 450-480km out of 90 l of gas which works out to be about $65 now that gas is 61c a litre. My next step is to put some coil spacers in and get a winch whoch will have to be fitted to an arb non winch bar (lots of cutting and welding) as i like the look of the bar and have no cash for a new one. Meanwhile im helping my brother in law with his tb42 turbo build which will be epic. He plans on a 6" lift, 2" body lift and 37" tyres. He is a panel beater by trade so fitting the tyres wont be a problem. He is going to be running liquid gas injection with a motec which we will try to tune ourselves. He has a long way to go as he has to weld new floor pans into the driver and passenger side foot wells. Ill post up some pics of my rig with the 33s when i can be bothered putting them on.

All I think when I see an ass that big is "Man the crap that comes out of that must be HUGE". I'm a bit twisted but thats what I think when I see a monster ass.

I thought a balance pipe for LPG is really only needed for a turbo setup. I think the balance pipe you are referring to is also called a boost reference for the converter. Usually in a naturally aspirated lpg system the cover of the converter just has a small mesh screen on it. If you run a turbo the balance line should be just after the turbo to the converter.

I too would like to do this mod. I have the non winch ARB bar and was thinking of using a winch mounting plate welded to the main mounts on the bar and also adding another plate to the front of the bar as well. Surely someone has done this and can provide pictures.

Hey guys. I've got a 1990 GQ RB30. I am in the process of connecting my tacho up after installing an MSD ignition. I've got the wiring diagram but cannot seem to understand what the engine revolution sensor is or what it does or where it is. On the diagram the -pulse wire from the dizzy splits, one going to the -wire on the coil and the other through a resistor to the engine revolution sensor then to the tacho. I thought the tacho should just get a negative pulse from the -coil wire but as my msd is using the -pulse wire from the original -coil I've got to connect it up to the tacho out from the MSD box. My other option was to splice the -pulse wire with the MSD pickup wire but don't know if that will have any bad effects on the MSD unit signal. Basically I want to use the original wiring from the dizzy to the MSD tach output so I don't have to take my dash apart. Anyone help.

I remember a camping trip I did with my old man many years ago. We were barreling down a dirt road somewhere in the Grampians and there were roo's crossing the road every couple of hundred meters. After two near misses I remember my dad say "Maybe we should slow down before we hit one", The second he hit the brakes travelling at about 80kmh we hit one bang in the middle of the windscreen!!. We got out of the car and it was convulsing while it was wedged in the windscreen for about 5 mins. We though it was dead so we started to peel if from the car and it got up and scared the living SH*T out of us then jumped about 20m down the road and died. Meanwhile we had to get a tow truck all the way back to Melbourne. Bullbar or no bullbar it's gonna hurt!

Wish i knew this a month ago.

Hey all. I've got a problem that I and many others have never seen before. I have a rb30 on lpg and turbo running an MSD 6BTM ignition module. Now the problem is the distributor cap. After about 130km the engine will start to missfire under light load (when accelerating in traffic) and the distributor cap is full of black powdery dust. Now its not carbon build up as far as I know and if if was then I have a serious problem because it is about a 2-3mm thick coating on everything under the dizzy cap after only 130km. I have put in a new CAS, rotor button and dizzy cap and it is still filling up with this dust. What can this dust be? I've checked all the moving parts from the dust cap up and there doesn't seem to be any rubbing marks of wear on any of the plastic parts. Could there be something in the CAS rubbing on the shaft? I'm stumped and so are all the other people I've spoken to which includes 2 mechanics of 20 years. Is it oil making its way into the dizzy cap and burning to create a black sooty dust? The dust is not magnetic and smells like burnt plastic but I cannot find any material missing from any of the parts. Another theory is that the spark is so big or the gap too large that the spark is burning the distributor cap layer by layer resulting in a perfect looking cap but slightly thinner. The contact points look brand new except for black scoring marks from the dust burning which wipe off with some contact cleaner. So if anyone has any ideas on what it could be throw them my way. Cheers

Replaced spark plug with the RIGHT ones and gapped em down. NO MORE FRIGGIN MISSFIRE!!! Dangnabit.

looks like the old has finally completely fallen over. I'm just getting server errors when trying to open the forum. So I would expect an influx of members vey soon.

Clean for now! Wait till the weekend.

Hey guys. Got my rig sorted finally and now I can tell you all about it. Bought a gq rb30 with 170,000km so was pretty stoked to find a low km one. Went to Noo Jee camping and realised that I had to do something about the power or lack of it. I had to sit in 2nd ringing the tits off it to get up the hill coming into Neerim from Noo Jee. So I started to collect bits and pieces for a turbo conversion. What I ended up with is a pretty neat install and a bit of power as well. I must admit not a bad job for a first timer. Thats where the story goes a bit bad. I took it to a workshop that was local to have it tuned where the tuner assured me he has tuned GRA gear before with sucess, well he might have but not a turbo. So he gave it back "tuned" (more like untuned) and said lambda was a bit rich so I could give it some boost and be OK. So I drove it a bit skepticle for a day and decided to give it one good squirt and the turbo packed it in and bits of turbine were scattered all over the road. Good bye GT35!! So I bought another turbo. It now runs a t04e turbo with an a/r .50 compressor and a/r .63 turbine on 13psi. Gas research s400 mixer with GRA converter and apexi front mount cooler. Boost comes on at 2300 and really hits hard at 2800-3000. It is still very driveable but am yet to see what kind of economy I'm getting. I had it tuned at PGS by James and it made a healty 170kwatw with 1052nm of torque in 3rd. I ended up running an MSD 6BTM ignition with boost retard set to 1 degee per psi to combat detonation and add economy. I also found out that I plumbed the vac advance into the plenum and was advancing the timing by 30degrees on idle (ooops), that what happens when you have no idea about distributors. He fixed all that. Now I'm looking for some tyres and I'll be hitting the mud pretty soon. Hopefully I'll be able to come on a few gatherings and meet some of you and ave some fun on the tracks and a few pointers. Thanks for reading I'll try to post some photos as soon as I can work out how to do it.